Back in January, after an interminable wait, the Hunt and Fish Club opened its doors. At the time, we were told what sorts of people would consider themselves at home at the Wall Street-backed establishment. They included: Women who want to be "declawed like lobsters"; reality TV stars associated with the mob; Jay Gatsby; Frank Sinatra; executive assistants; Dean Martin; and people who want to take their shoes off while they eat. Today, we learn what they can expect should they choose to order anything. According to Bloomberg, it's not great!
... the meat on a recent evening was corpse-cold, under-seasoned, and cooked so unevenly that it was nearly blue on one side while the other was bloodless and grey. The beef had been mistreated on the carving board as well—sliced into inelegant, crooked pieces that varied wildly in thickness. About 15 minutes after the porterhouse landed, just as the fat on the slate had begun to congeal, the béarnaise arrived in a small silver pitcher. The buttery emulsion appeared to have traveled a great distance and it was exhausted. It was no longer glossy and smooth but dull and deflated, tasting only of white vinegar, like some kind of all-natural, homemade cleaning product...
"This is a little piece of heaven," the waitress told me as she set down a plate of truffle tater tots—a side she’d singled out earlier in the evening as a must-order. Our ideas of the afterlife must be quite different. The tots were enormous, each big enough for several bites. Some had burned crevices but insides filled with strips of raw potato. The tots were doused in so much truffle oil, they smelled like a petrol station on a very hot day. Truffle oil tastes nothing like the real thing, and it should be used sparingly—ideally, not at all. Truffle oil is to fresh truffles as the light of your screen is to the sun. It’s also a bully, edging out every other scent in the room with its intense, artificial clobber. Just as Hunt & Fish is to elegant Manhattan steakhouses: a loud and often clumsy imitation.
Make your reservation today.